Unmissable family time-travel in historic Normandy, France
Family history adventure in France
Who remembers William the Conqueror? The fierce French nobleman who was promised the English throne by Edward the Confessor, only to be thwarted by the cunning Harold Godwinson, leaving William to lead his army to the Battle of Hastings to defeat Harold and take back the promised English crown in 1066.
Our daughter is learning about this fascinating piece of history at school and embarrassingly, I was struggling to remember my history facts, so I did what any travel planner worth their salt would do – packed the family up, loaded up the car and set off for 36 hours in Normandy to go back in time
Getting there
Travelling to Normandy from the south coast of England is really easy. Head down to Portsmouth and sail withBrittany Ferriesto St Malo (just on the Brittany/Normandy border) or sail to Caen (directly in Normandy).
Mont St Michel ferry en route to St Malo
Our overnight sailing started in French culinary bliss; a 3 course meal in the restaurant, before heading to our cabin to tuck up under snug duvets and puffy pillows. The children were super excited to be in at sea in bunk beds and there was much squealing with excitement before they finally settled down to sleep.
Awaking early the next morning we sailed into in the town ofSt Malo, where we disembarked and headed straight to the nearest cafe in town for breakfast and hot chocolates. We could have lingered a lot longer in St Malo, as there was so much to explore, but we had a history lesson to discover!
St Malo – well worth it’s own short break
First stop, the incredible Mont St Michel – 8th Century
The Mont St Michel island is fabulous and truly takes your breath away because it’s one of the great architectural wonders in France. It was built by Saint Aubert, Bishop of Avranches in the 8th Century, who saw in dreams Archangel Michael, who ordered him to build a sanctuary on Mount Tomb which was a rocky outcrop at the mouth of the Couesnon river.
Aerial shot of the Mont St Michel
This stunning abbey was built in phases over period of years, continuing to build up and up culminating in the bell tower at the top of the Abbey. Great consideration had to be given to the weight of the Abbey, given the buildings below it had to support the upper structures which is always a marvel when you consider medieval building tools. Today, Mont St Michel consists of homes, shops, restaurants, churches and the Abbey itself.
If you’re visiting allow a good 4 or 5 hours to enjoy it in full – the history is rich, the views are spectacular and it’s a very enjoyable family attraction to visit, whilst learning about life in the 8th Century Abbey along the way.
View of the cloisters in the Abbey
When you leave Mont St Michel, be sure to stop in at anycafein the local region to buy freshly made Madeleines – delicious with fresh orange juice, coffee or hot chocolate and I’m sure the ones freshly made in France seem to taste so much better than the ones we get in the UK!
Yummy Madeleines!
World War Two Normandy D-Day landings – 6th June 1944
TheD-Daylanding beaches are a must if you’re in this part of Normandy to reflect on the great sacrifice given by our soldiers to help end the second world war. Our children are 10 and 11 and we thought it was good time to introduce them to the history of the second world war, as played out on the Normandy beaches.
WW2 War Cemetery
There are 2 excellent museums atArromanches– the one at the top of the hill has acircular cinemathat explains the build up to the D-Day landings and the following weeks, which was easy for the children to follow as its mainly video images and covers the first 100 days following the D-Day landings. The othermuseumis at the bottom of the hill, overlooking the beach and is also well worth a visit.
View over Arromanche beach
After we had visited the museums and explored the beaches, the children had lots of questions to ask about what they had seen and heard. The children compared the young age of some of the soldiers to their cousins and couldn’t believe how young they were and I’m pleased that the foundations for this historic period are laid so that when this topic is covered in school, the children can reflect on what they saw and learned from this trip.
One of the gun batteries at Utah beachWounded soldier memorial
William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy – 1066
This chap is the real reason we’re in Normandy – to find out more about who he was and why he was such a big influence on England and the British Crown. We headed off to his ancestral home at hisCastle in Falaise. The children loved it – lots to learn, fun to run around on the ramparts with it’s 15 towers and a great way to experience what it was like to live in Medieval France. And the best thing – according to my 10 year old? The Dungeons!
William the Conqueror’s Castle
Bayeux Tapestry – 1070
If you’ve been learning about William the Conqueror and the Battle of Hastings in 1066, then you must come and see this incredibly story of events leading up to and immediately following the battle, in theBayeux Tapestry. At 70 meters in length, there are 50scenesdepicting the events leading to theNorman Conquest of England. Take the audio headphones and follow the story along the tapestry. It really is well worth a visit to bring this part of history to life for school children.
The Bayeux Tapestry
I hope you enjoy exploring Normandy, book early to get great deals on the ferry crossing and accommodation. We stayed in Caen which was pretty central for everything we visited. Good luck with your history lesson – do let me know how you get on!
Disclosure: This post may contain an affiliate link & I may have been compensated for my time writing this article.
Mont Saint Michel is a bucket list destination located in the Normandy region of Northern France. The picturesque island rises majestically from the sea during high tide and is accessible to the mainland during low tide. The uniqueness of the island is one of the reasons the site has been occupied since 708. If you’re joining the more than 3 million people per year to visit, read our Mont St Michel travel tips before booking your vacation.
A Brief History
Mont St Michel has had a long and complicated history. Until the 8th century, when it was converted to a monastery, it was called Mont Tombe Legend says that the archangel Michael appeared to Aubert of Avranches in 708 and instructed him to build a church on the rocky island. Later, it was seized by the Vikings and then in the 10th century, the Benedictine Monks settled here building and expanding the church. During the Hundred Years’ War, the Kingdom of England attempted to capture the island but was unsuccessful due to the abbey’s improved fortifications.
The abbey was closed in the 17th century and used as a prison until 1863. Finally in 1874, the mount was declared a historic monument and has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Obviously, this is a quick overview of the sites fascinating history. Take time during your visit to learn more.
Mont St Michel Travel Tips
Be Prepared for Mud
When the island isn’t surrounded by water, the area is a muddy mess. It’s still beautiful, but this is not the time to be wearing your new shoes. We were lucky that, when we arrived, the area was fairly dry. We could walk around the site, but did have to avoid some areas. Derrick tried again later that evening and almost lost his shoe! Bring old flip-flops or be prepared to walk barefoot while traipsing around the island while the tide is out.
Guided tours are available during low tide to explore the sands. Tours are required if you plan to venture far from the mont, as it can be dangerous with the rapidly changing tides. We saw many people coming back from the tour wearing mud covered shoes or just walking barefoot with their pant legs rolled up.
And Prepared to Walk Uphill
Pack your walking shoes and be prepared to walk up hills and steep stone steps during your visit. The highest point of Mont Saint Michel is 302 ft (92 m) above sea level with winding streets lined with stone and half-timber buildings.
Wandering the charming streets should be on your itinerary. There are tons of shops and restaurants to spend your money in, but keep in mind they are pricey.
Pack Warm Clothing
It can be quite chilly (and windy) at Mont Saint Michel, even in the summer months. Dress in layers for your visit and ensure you have a coat, scarf and gloves. A compact umbrella is also worth packing.
Check the Tidal Calendar
The water level can change up to 46 ft between high and low tides. At certain times, the island may be inaccessible due to an extreme high tide. You don’t want to arrive only to learn you can’t get to the island for 2 hours! There are also times of the year when the tide hardly changes. We stayed overnight on the island in October and the tide never came in!
On a positive note – we now have an excuse to return
Tour the Abbaye Mont Saint Michel
While you may be tempted to skip the abbey due to the extra cost (and possibly long line), we highly suggest a tour. In addition to the rich history of the abbey, you get great views of the countryside and the town below. We took a ton of landscape and rooftop photos from the west terrace. During the tour you can visit the areas for receiving pilgrims and religious rooms such as the church and crypts, as well as the areas dedicated to everyday life of the monks, such as the cloisters and refectory.
The kids were fascinated by the wheel in the Monk’s Ossuary. It was installed in 1820 to hoist provisions to the prisoners that were held in the abbey during the time when the abbey was being used as a prison. The Great Pillars Crypt was another interesting room for the kids. It was built in the 15th century to support the Gothic chancel of the abbey church. We also liked the Knights’ Hall, which wasn’t used for knights at all. It was built to hold up the cloister and was used by the monks as a room for work and study.
*Purchase tickets in advance online to avoid the queue. There is a separate line for ticket holders. When we visited, there was only one couple in this line. Everyone else was in line to purchase tickets.
Audio guides are available to hear a detailed history and descriptions of each room during the tour. There is an additional fee, but it’s worth the cost.
Visit During the Off Season
As with other tourist destinations, the best time to tour the island is during the off season. The busiest time of year is July and August, so avoid planning your holiday during the summer, if possible. You will find tourists packed into the streets year-round but you can avoid some of the crush by visiting outside the summer months. You’ll also be able to save on accommodations if you plan accordingly.
Arrive Early in the Morning or in the Evening
The best time to visit Mont Saint Michel is early in the morning before all the tourists descend on the island. Even around 9am, the streets are still relatively quiet, making it a great time to wander without having to bob and weave around other visitors. Evening is another good time to visit, once most of the day trippers start heading home. Shuttles run from 7.30am to 12.00am daily, so you’ll have no problem accessing the site early or staying late into the evening (assuming the tides are in your favor).
If you arrive in the afternoon, you’re also likely to get stuck in long lines to park. There is a fee for parking itself, but the shuttle bus to get from the parking area to the island is free.
Getting to Mont Saint Michel
Arrive at the site by car, train or as part of a tour from Paris or Bayeux. Though I would recommend arriving by car, if possible. Then, from the Information Center by the parking area, you can take a free shuttle bus to the base of the island. From the information center, you could also walk by taking one of the three new paths or ride on a horse-drawn carriage (fee).
Buy Cookies
Once you walk through the gate of Mont Saint Michel, you’ll see the small store on the right selling Les Galettes de La Mère Poulard. These cookies are fantastic and many varieties can’t be found in stores elsewhere in France. I like the chocolate chip cookies and the only time we can find them is around the holidays. The tins are also neat, so the cookies make a great gift as well.
Have Your Camera Ready
*Sigh* The tide stayed out
The iconic shots of Mont St Michel are of the entire island. You can get photos during the drive in if you have a lens with great zoom. A popular area for photos is Pointe du Grouin du Sud.
If you want to capture the stunning photos of the tidal change or when the site is an island, you need to check the tidal chart and be prepared for crowds. The yellow highlighted times represent the visible incoming and outgoing tide surge while the few orange highlights represent when the mont is an island again. Just be cautious of where you stand to take photos. The tide rises extremely quickly and areas you think may be safe, likely aren’t.
Where to Stay
We decided to stay on the island, thinking it would be the best option to explore and really make the most out of our visit. I loved the idea of being on Mont Saint Michel in the evening and early morning, but to be fair, I did fantasize about staring out my hotel window as the tide rapidly came in, which did not happen. Consequently, I would not recommend the overnight stay there as we could have easily stayed off the island and walked (or taken the shuttle) to our hotel after enjoying Mont Saint Michel in the evening.
If you want to stay on the island for the experience, we stayed at the Auberge Saint Pierre. The hotel is expensive, but was one of the better priced accommodations. Again, a better option would have been to stay off the island.
And if you decide to stay on the island anyway, pack minimal luggage as you will be carrying it up a lot of steps. The shuttle stops quite a ways from the island itself, so you’ll also have to drag your suitcases a good distance. This can be difficult in rainy weather or in the heat of summer.
Where Not to Eat
We had dinner at La Mère Poulard. A friend had visited many years ago and highly recommended the restaurant, so I didn’t even bother to read the reviews. The food was barely in the category of “okay”, it was way overpriced and the service was terrible. We would have been better off grabbing sandwiches for dinner. Or even better, going off the island to eat.
Mont Saint Michel is a bucket list destination that exceeded our expectations. It’s one of the few places that is even more amazing in person than in photos. Pack smart, plan to spend time wandering the narrow streets and visit the abbey. The site is an island when all those classical photos are taken, so check the tidal chart before booking a trip. We visited as part of a 2-week road trip, but Mont St Michel is also a great day trip from Paris. A visit to this French UNESCO World Heritage Site will take your breath away!
What other Mont St Michel travel tips can you share?
St Michael's Mount (en español «monte de san Miguel»; en córnico: Karrek Loes y'n Koes, literalmente «roca gris en el bosque») es una isla mareal situada a 366 m de la orilla de la bahía de Mount, en la costa de Cornualles, Reino Unido. Es también una parroquia civil inglesa y está unida con la ciudad de Marazion por una calzada artificial hecha con adoquines de granito, transitable entre mediada la marea y la marea baja.
Su nombre en córnico puede aludir al recuerdo popular de una época anterior en que la bahía de Mount estaba inundada, y que sería una descripción exacta de un monte rodeado de bosques. Después de algunas fuertes tormentas, en la playa en Perranuthnoe, durante las mareas bajas se han visto restos de árboles, pero su datación por radiocarbono estableció que la inmersión de la madera de avellano fue alrededor de 1700 a. C.1 El cronista John de Worcester2 relata que en el año 1099, estando St Michael's Mount a cinco o seis millas (10 km) del mar, encerrado en un bosque espeso, en el tercer día de las nonas de noviembre, el mar se desbordó destruyendo muchas ciudades y ahogando a muchas personas, así como innumerables bueyes y ovejas. La Crónica anglosajona registra con fecha de 11 de noviembre de 1099: «La inundación del mar alcanzó una altura tal, e hizo tanto daño, que nadie se acordaba de lo que hubiese hecho antes».3 La leyenda córnica sobre Lyonesse, el antiguo reino que se dice se extendía desde Penwith hacia las islas Sorlingas, también habla de una tierra que estaba siendo inundada por el mar.
En tiempos prehistóricos, St Michael's Mount pudo haber servido como puerto para el comercio del estaño, y Gavin de Beer cree que puede ser identificado con Ictis/Ictin, el puerto de estaño mencionado por Posidonio.1
Históricamente, St Michael's Mount fue el homólogo en Cornualles del Mont Saint-Michel en Normandía, Francia (que comparte las mismas características de isla mareal y la misma forma cónica), cuando en el siglo xi Eduardo el Confesor se la concedió a los benedictinos, la misma orden religiosa del francés Mont Saint-Michel.4
St Michael's Mount es conocido coloquialmente por los lugareños simplemente como The Mount (El Monte).
Vista de St Michael's MountSt Michael's Mount en 1900Vista de St Michael's Mount con vegetación subtropical
La isla de El Monte puede ser el Mictis de Timeo, mencionado por Plinio el Viejo en su Naturalis Historia (IV: XVI.104), y el Ictis de Diodoro Sículo.[cita requerida] Ambos hombres probablemente tuvieron acceso a textos ahora perdidos del antiguo geógrafo griego Piteas, que habría visitado la isla en el siglo iv a. C. Si esto fuera cierto, sería uno de los primeros lugares identificados en todo el oeste de Europa y, en particular, en la isla de Gran Bretaña.
En el siglo v d. C., se afirma que el Arcángel San Miguel se apareció a los pescadores locales en El Monte,5 lo que, según el autor Richard Freeman Johnson, puede ser tal vez una apropiación nacionalista de un antiguo mito.6
La isla pudo haber sido el sitio de un antiguo monasterio en el siglo viii y, a principios del siglo xi, Eduardo el Confesor se lo concedió a la abadía normanda de Mont Saint-Michel.7 Fue un priorato de esta abadía hasta la disolución de las casas ajenas por Enrique V, cuando fue otorgado a la abadesa y el convento de Syon en Isleworth, Middlesex. Fue un complejo de peregrinos, cuya devoción se alentó con una indulgencia concedida por el Papa Gregorio VII en el siglo xi.
Los edificios monásticos fueron construidos durante el siglo xii, pero en 1425, al ser un monasterio extranjero, fueron suprimidos.7
Henry Pomeroy capturó El Monte, en nombre del príncipe Juan, en el reinado de Ricardo I. En 1473 John de Vere, 13º Conde de Oxford, entonces exiliado en Francia, conquistó y sostuvo el lugar durante un asedio de 23 semanas contra 6.000 soldados de Eduardo IV y a principios de 1474 se rindió. En 1497, el pretendiente al trono Perkin Warbeck también ocupó El Monte. Humphry Arundell, gobernador de St Michael's Mount, encabezó la rebelión de 1549. Durante el reinado de la reina Isabel I, el lugar fue otorgado a Robert Cecil, conde de Salisbury, cuyo hijo lo vendió a sir Francis Basset. Durante la Guerra Civil inglesa, sir Arthur Basset, hermano de sir Francis, defendió El Monte contra el Parlamento hasta julio de 1646. El Monte fue vendido en 1659 al coronel John St Aubyn. Su descendiente, Lord St Levan, sigue siendo el tenente del lugar, pero ha dejado de residir allí; su sobrino, James St Aubyn, reside y lleva a gestión del lugar desde 2004.
En 1755, el terremoto de Lisboa causó un tsunami que golpeó esta costa de Cornualles, a más de 1.600 km de distancia. El mar subió dos metros en 10 minutos en St Michael's Mount, decayendo en la misma proporción, y continuó subiendo y bajando durante cinco horas. En el siglo xix, el escritor francés Arnold Boscowitz afirmó que «se produjo en las costas de Cornualles una gran pérdida de vidas y propiedades».8
Poco se sabe acerca de la aldea antes del comienzo del siglo xviii, excepto que había pocas cabañas de pescadores y casas monásticas. Después de las mejoras del puerto en 1727, St Michael's Mount se convirtió en un puerto floreciente, y en 1811 había 53 casas y cuatro calles. La población alcanzó su punto máximo en 1821, cuando la isla tenía 221 residentes, con tres escuelas, una capilla metodista y tres casas públicas, en su mayoría utilizadas por los marineros de visita. El pueblo entró en decadencia después de las grandes mejoras del puerto de Penzance y con la prolongación del ferrocarril a Penzance en 1852, y muchas de las casas y edificios fueron demolidos.
Sesenta y cinco años después de acabada la guerra, se sugirió, basándose en entrevistas con contemporáneos, que el antiguo ministro nazi y al tiempo embajador alemán en Gran Bretaña, Joachim von Ribbentrop, habría querido vivir en El Monte después de la planeada conquista alemana. Los documentos archivados revelan que durante su estancia en Gran Bretaña en la década de 1930, en la que había propuesto inicialmente una alianza con la Alemania nazi, Ribbentrop frecuentemente visitó Cornualles.10
En 1954, el 3.er barón de St Levan cedió la mayor parte de St Michael’s Mount a la Fundación Nacional para Lugares de Interés Histórico o Belleza Natural (National Trust), junto con un importante fondo patrimonial.[cita requerida] La familia St Aubyn retuvo un contrato de arrendamiento de 999 años para habitar el castillo y una licencia para administrar la exposición pública de las habitaciones históricas. Será gestionado en conjunto con el National Trust.
Sapientia Aedificavit Sibi Domum. Es decir, "la sabiduría ha edificado aquí su casa". Resulta curioso que la misma frase aparece en el Evangelio de María Magdalena, un texto apócrifo. Se dice que en el interior de esta iglesia y de otras muchas de Venecia está escondido el tesoro de los templarios. Pero no hay ninguna prueba de ello. Para terminar ya con esta entrada me gustaría que nos acercásemos un momento a uno de los edificios más emblemáticos de Venecia: el Palacio Ducal.
There are claims that the line perfectly aligns with the sunset on the day of the Northern Hemisphere’s Summer Solstice[5] (however, sunrise/sunset maps show this to be incorrect [6]).
As with other ley lines, no scientific evidence indicates that the alignment was planned and meaningful, making the claim pseudoscientific, but commonly reported at these sites. Physicist Luca Amendola noted that the deviation of these sites from the loxodrome that allegedly connects them ranges between 14 km and 42 km.[4]
According to legend, the Sacred Line of Saint Michael represents the blow the Saint inflicted upon the Devil when he cast him into Hell, as per the story of the Fall of Satan.[7]
Some also say that it is a reminder from Saint Michael that the faithful are expected to be righteous, walking the straight path.[8]
However one solves the mysterious Sword of Michael, it is a reminder to us in our hi-tech age that our ancestors had perhaps more technologies than our iPhones have dreamt of. They had a mystical understanding of the interactions of heaven and earth that we have lost. The ruins of their monasteries, the relics of their saints are the remains of a world crowded by wonders and thronged by angels.
In the summer of 1987, I was living in England working as an Anglican priest. I found myself between jobs, so with three months free, I decided to make a hitchhiking pilgrimage to Jerusalem staying in monasteries and religious houses en route.
After crossing the channel to Normandy I headed for Le Mont-Saint-Michel—the famous monastic mountain on the coastal border of Normandy and Brittany. When I arrived I was immediately taken not only with the incredible architecture and setting, but also with the almost palpable spiritual atmosphere of the place. Situated on a bay noted for its mercurial tides and quicksand, the mountain of the angels was at once magnificent and magical, dangerous and delightful.
There began an intense interest in the ministry of angels. As I traveled East I sensed a renewed awareness of my guardian angel’s presence. The hardship of walking/hitch hiking every day and the sojourns in monasteries made the pilgrimage seem like a walk with the angels.
This awareness was raised even further when, on one of the days I was forced by circumstances to take the train, I noticed as I sped towards the Northern Italian city of Turin another mountain monastery. High above the Val de Susa was a church crowning a mountain. I learned that it was Sacra San Michele—another St Michael Mountain.
Having lived in England, I was already familiar with the English mini-Mont-Saint-Michel—St Michael’s Mount—a church and former monastery on an island off the coast of Cornwall in Western England. Having seen Sacra san Michele, I had a hunch about these three Saint Michael mountain top monasteries, so a few days later at the Cistercian monastery of Chiaravalle in Milan I got a map and a ruler and my hunch seemed to be proved correct. St Michael’s Mount, Mont-Saint-Michel, and Sacra San Michele were on a geographical straight line.
On my return to England I discussed my findings with an Italian friend. He said, “What about Monte Archangelo on the Gargano peninsula—the heel of the boot in Italy? According to legends, your three monasteries were situated in their unusual locations due to visions of their founders of the Archangel Michael. Monte Gargano is also an ancient shrine to Michael the Archangel.” So I got out my atlas and my ruler, and Monte Archangelo was indeed on the same straight line.
Intrigued by this unusual phenomenon, my Catholic friend added, “Then there is also—in the other direction— the Irish island monastic settlement of Skellig Michael. The island, since made famous as a setting for a mediocre film in the Star Wars franchise, was also on the “Michael Line.”
Furthermore, it seemed that if you extended the line Eastward it went through Athens to Jerusalem.
Although I discovered this geographical monastic curiosity, I should have known that I was not the first to notice it. It is known as “The Sword of St Michael” and no one has, to my knowledge, an adequate explanation for its existence.
Although I discerned that the line goes through Athens to Jerusalem, others believe it touches down in Greece and Israel at two other locations: the Island of Symi where a large statue of Saint Michael is located, and Mount Carmel.
Legend has it that each monastery was built precisely in its impossible location according to instructions to the monastic founders given by the Archangel himself. Others observe that there are many churches dedicated to Michael on hilltops since it was thought he would lead the heavenly armies on the Lord’s return, and they would set foot on earth at the high points.
More practically-minded theorists point out that the seven monastic sites are aligned with sunset on the summer solstice. Solar, lunar, and stellar alignments in ancient monuments and churches are well known. In fact, in the research for my book on the magi I discovered that “astroarcheology” is the name for the academic discipline dedicated to the study of this phenomenon. While this explains the orientation, it does not explain the dedication to Saint Michael and the fact that the seven monasteries’ alignment is so precise that it accounts for the curvature of the earth—nor does it explain how the three central sites are almost exactly equidistant from each other.
However one solves the mysterious Sword of Michael, it is a reminder to us in our hi-tech age that our ancestors had perhaps more technologies than our iPhones have dreamt of. They had a mystical understanding of the interactions of heaven and earth that we have lost. The ruins of their monasteries, the relics of their saints are the remains of a world crowded by wonders and thronged by angels.
This essay was first published here in October 2021.
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The featured image, Amaustan, is “Le Mont-Saint-Michel vu du ciel au lever du soleil. Photo prise par un drone.” This file is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 4.0 International license, courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.