The majestic Place de la Concorde played an essential part in French history. On many occasions, the square has been chosen for happy or sad national gatherings. One of the many prestigious stages of the Historical Axis, the square features a vast and elegant neo-classical ensemble from the 18th century. It connects the Tuileries Garden to the Champs-Elysées and the Madeleine to Palais Bourbon.
The magnificence of place de la Concorde
The Place de la Concorde plays a significant symbolic part along the Historical Axis. This magnificent vista runs through some of Paris’ most celebrated monuments and squares:
The square takes the form of an octagon measuring 359 by 212 metres. The River Seine borders it to the South, and classical-style buildings to the North. The Egyptian obelisk stands at the centre of the square, flanked by two massive fountains.
The turbulent history of the square
In 1753 it was decided that the site should be designed as a square. This decision was taken during the reign of King Louis XV. At that time, many French cities had started or completed prestigious squares. They were commonly called “Place Royale” to the glory of the King: Montpellier, Nantes, Metz, Dijon or Bordeaux.
For instance, in the then-independent Duchy of Lorraine, the King’s father-in-law, Stanislas Leszczyński, commissioned the beautiful Place Stanislas in Nancy, which was well underway by 1753.
Gabriel, the King’s architect, was tasked with creating a magnificent square along the Historical Axis. It would stage an equestrian statue of Louis XV in the centre. The two monumental pavilions bordering the square’s northern side and divided by the Rue Royale were built in the Louis XV style: the Hôtel Crillon and the Hôtel de la Marine.
Misfortune struck the square on the occasion of the marriage of Dauphin Louis and Austrian archduchess Marie-Antoinette. On the 30th May 1770, people assembled for a celebration with much pomp and ceremony. A beautiful firework display was planned. However, following the accidental fall of a rocket, the crowd was panic-stricken, and 133 people were killed, trampled and choked.
During the Reign of Terror
But the worst was yet to come 20 years later with the uprising of the Revolution. Originally called ‘Place Louis XV’, the square was renamed in 1792 as ‘Place de la Révolution’. It became the stage for horrendous public executions by the guillotine.
During the Reign of Terror, the King, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and more than 1,100 victims were beheaded in less than two and a half years.
Execution of Louis XVI on Place de la Concorde
On 21st January 1793, Louis XVI was guillotined at the exact position of the statue of Brest, at the North-West angle.
From the 13th of May 1793, the “National Razor” was moved across the square near the railings of the Tuileries Gardens. Many more victims were beheaded: Marie-Antoinette (16th October), Madame du Barry, Danton, Madame Roland and Robespierre.
Place de la Concorde
Following those dreadful events of the Reign of Terror, the Directorate changed the square’s name in 1795 to one of reconciliation and hope: Place de la Concorde.
The Monuments of French cities
In the 1830s, architect Jacques Ignace Hittorff transformed the square by adding statues and fountains that can be seen today.
At each corner of the octagon formed by the Place, he erected eight stone monuments representing the French cities of:
The Obelisk, ideally placed in the middle of the Place de la Concorde, is part of the strange geometrical layouts and alignments along the Historical Axis, evoking the symbols of Ancient Egypt.
Napoleon’s campaign to Egypt
To understand the reasoning that led the French to develop such admiration for Egyptology, let’s go back to Napoleon Bonaparte’s campaign to Egypt in 1798. The French Emperor-to-be attempted to conquer Egypt to counteract the English influence in the Middle East and India. The General was not coming to Egypt with soldiers only. As a newly elected French Academy of Sciences member, he took 167 savants to Egypt in 1798. There he founded the first modern scientific institute in Egypt: the Institut d’Egypte in Cairo.
King Charles X (1757-1836) showed an interest in Ancient Egypt and commissioned Jean-François Champollion (who deciphered the ancient hieroglyphs) to arrange for an obelisk to be returned to Paris.
In 1831, Mohammed-Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, offered France one of the two obelisks which guarded the entrance of the temple of Luxor in Upper Egypt. Both date back to Pharaoh Ramses II, the most powerful king of Ancient Egypt.
A unique ship, the Luxor, was designed to carry the obelisk to France down the Nile and across the Mediterranean Sea to the port city of Toulon and then by river to Paris.
In Charles X’s plans, the obelisk had to find its place on Place de la Concorde. That is the square built in honour of his grandfather and where his brother and sister-in-law were beheaded.
Raising the Obelisk on place de la Concorde
On the 25th of October 1836, 200,000 people gathered at the square to witness the lifting operation to raise the obelisk onto its pedestal.
Erection of the Luxor Obelisk on Place de la Concorde in 1836. Painting by François Dubois
To the relief of supervisor Lebas and the assembled crowd, the event was a success. From that day, the “Obélisque de Louxor” sits enthroned in the centre of the square.
Some 3,500 years old, the obelisk is the oldest monument standing in Paris. It is 23 metres tall and weighs 220 tons. However, the French capital was not the only European city to display an obelisk.
Other Egyptian obelisks in Europe
The Romans transferred the one standing in Saint Peter’s Square in Rome to decorate the circus.
Another specimen erected after that of Paris is in London (the obelisk of Tuthmosis III on the Victoria Embankment, better known as Cleopatra’s Needle).
Without forgetting New York (a twin obelisk to the one in London, erected in Central Park).
The pyramidion
When the obelisk was carried to France in the 19th Century, its original cap had long disappeared. In fact, it was believed to have been stolen in the 6th century BC.
In May 1998, the French authorities decided to refurbish the obelisk by putting a copy of the missing gold-leafed pyramid cap on top, thanks to the initiative of Egyptologist Christiane Desroches Noblecourt. This pyramid cap is called a pyramidion. It is supposed to reflect the rays of the sun.
In 1988, this tremendous Egyptian landmark was joined by another pharaoh-related structure along the Historical Axis: the modern Glass Pyramid in the Louvre, evoking the Great Pyramid of Giza.
A perpendicular perspective on the Historical Axis
The Place de la Concorde set the stage for another North-South perspective, much shorter, perpendicular to the Historical Axis.
It features, on the South side, beyond the bridge “Pont de la Concorde” across the Seine:
the Madeleine Church, on the North side, at the end of Rue Royale.
In fact, both monuments match each other across the Place de la Concorde with their grand Classical-style porticos, evoking the design of Roman temples.
The Palais Bourbon housed the National Assembly, and its pedimented, collonaded front was inspired by the Madeleine Church at the far end of the short perspective crossing the Place de la Concorde.
The Pont de la Concorde, crossing the Seine and linking the Place de la Concorde to the Palais Bourbon, was completed in 1791, with many of its stones taken from the dismantled Bastille fortress. When complete, it was said that the people of Paris could ride roughshod over the ancient fortress.
The view from the bridge stretches to the Eiffel Tower, the Alexandre III Bridge on one side, and the other to the Tuileries Garden and the Louvre.
Until the mid-2010s, a Ferris wheel stood in the centre of the square during the Christmas period. It allowed taking beautiful pictures from the beautiful perspective of the Champs-Elysées.
Echa un vistazo a esta ruta de punto a punto de 3,9-km cerca de 1º Distrito, Paris. Por lo general, se considera una ruta fácil, que se tarda una media de 53 min en recorrer. Esta ruta es excelente para el ciclismo en carretera, correr y pasear, y es poco probable encontrarse con otras personas mientras se recorre. La ruta está abierta todo el año y es perfecta para visitar en cualquier momento. Los perros son bienvenidos, pero deben permanecer atados con correa.
Este itinerario, que parte de la estación de metro de Louvre-Rivoli, recorre algunos de los principales lugares de interés del centro de París. El paseo discurre a orillas del Sena, frente al célebre Museo del Louvre. A la altura de la pasarela Léopold Sédar-Senghor, el recorrido atraviesa el Jardín de las Tullerías antes de llegar a la Madeleine y a la Ópera, para terminar en la estación de metro Richelieu-Drouot.
The Triumphal Quadriga is the group of bronze four horses at St. Mark's Basilica. They were originally outside on the façade, but they have been replaced with replicas and moved inside for protection. It is unclear when they were made, but it seems that they were brought to Constantinople and placed on the starting gates at the Hippodrome. It is possible that they originally had a chariot with a driver as part of the sculpture. However everything before its relocation to Venice is uncertain. It is clear that the Venetians brought the horses and later placed them on San Marco's façade after the Crusaders sacked Constantinople in 1204. While most of the bronze sculptures in Constantinople were melted down by the Crusaders, this piece is fortunately one of the few to survive. When Napoleon captured Venice, he brought them to Paris and placed it on the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, which is now topped with another quadriga. The Triumphal Quadriga have influenced many other quadriga as well.
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Copy of the Horses on the Façade of San Marco
Copy of the Horses on Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel
Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in Paris commissioned in 1806
Illustration on the base of the obelisk, showing how it was raised into place in 1836
Hieroglyphs on the obelisk.
Hieroglyphs on the upper obelisk. The Pharaoh on his throne is portrayed at the top
The centrepiece of the Place de la Concorde is an ancient Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II. It is one of two which the Egyptian government gave to the French in the 19th century. The other one stayed in Egypt, too difficult and heavy to move to France with the technology at that time. On 26 September 1981 President François Mitterrand formally returned the title of the second obelisk to Egypt.[16]
The obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple. The wali of Egypt, or hereditary governor, Muhammad Ali Pasha, offered the 3,300-year-old Luxor Obelisk as a diplomatic gift to France in 1829. It arrived in Paris on 21 December 1833. Three years later, it was hoisted into place, on top of the pedestal which originally supported the statue of Louis XV, destroyed during the Revolution. The raising of the column was a major feat of engineering, depicted by illustrations on the base of the monument. King Louis Philippe dedicated the obelisk on 25 October 1836.[17]
The obelisk, a yellow granite column, rises 23 metres (75 ft) high, including the base, and weighs over 250 tonnes (280 short tons). Given the technical limitations of the day, transporting it was no easy feat – on the pedestal are drawn diagrams explaining the machinery that was used for the transportation. The government of France added a gold-leafed pyramidal cap to the top of the obelisk in 1998, replacing the missing original, believed stolen in the 6th century BC.[18]
Illustration on the base of the obelisk, showing how it was raised into place in 1836
Hieroglyphs on the obelisk.
Hieroglyphs on the upper obelisk. The Pharaoh on his throne is portrayed at the top
The centrepiece of the Place de la Concorde is an ancient Egyptian obelisk decorated with hieroglyphics exalting the reign of the pharaoh Ramesses II. It is one of two which the Egyptian government gave to the French in the 19th century. The other one stayed in Egypt, too difficult and heavy to move to France with the technology at that time. On 26 September 1981 President François Mitterrand formally returned the title of the second obelisk to Egypt.[16]
The obelisk once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple. The wali of Egypt, or hereditary governor, Muhammad Ali Pasha, offered the 3,300-year-old Luxor Obelisk as a diplomatic gift to France in 1829. It arrived in Paris on 21 December 1833. Three years later, it was hoisted into place, on top of the pedestal which originally supported the statue of Louis XV, destroyed during the Revolution. The raising of the column was a major feat of engineering, depicted by illustrations on the base of the monument. King Louis Philippe dedicated the obelisk on 25 October 1836.[17]
The obelisk, a yellow granite column, rises 23 metres (75 ft) high, including the base, and weighs over 250 tonnes (280 short tons). Given the technical limitations of the day, transporting it was no easy feat – on the pedestal are drawn diagrams explaining the machinery that was used for the transportation. The government of France added a gold-leafed pyramidal cap to the top of the obelisk in 1998, replacing the missing original, believed stolen in the 6th century BC.[18]
La plaza de la Concordia se encuentra al pie de la avenida de los Campos Elíseos y bordea los jardines de las Tullerías. Hoy destaca por el Obelisco de Luxor (que data del año 3.300 a.C. y fue erigido en mayo de 1998), los prestigiosos hoteles que la bordean y sus dos fuentes monumentales (Fontaine des Mers y Fontaine des Fleuves). Creada a finales del siglo XVIII, la plaza de la Concordia fue conocida por ser uno de los lugares de ejecución durante la Revolución Francesa. Luis XVI y María Antonieta (entre otros) fueron guillotinados aquí. Entre 1836 y 1846, el arquitecto Jacques-Ignace Hittorf transformó la plaza en lo que es hoy.
Da la sensación de que está despegando. Puede verse desde las calles de rodaje próximas a la T3 del aeropuerto de Roissy y también desde una de las rutas de acceso al principal aeropuerto de París, Francia. Se trata de Concorde con los colores de Air France que se instaló sobre unos pilares de forma que su trompa apunta al cielo y parece que esté virando ligeramente a la derecha, dándole una curiosa sensación de movimiento.
A modo de recuerdo de los tiempos supersónicos de Air France en el aeropuerto Charles de Gaulle, entre 1976 y 2003: una pieza de museo, como los 18 Concorde supervivientes que están repartidos entre museos y aeropuertos de Europa y América. ¿Qué ha sido de ellos?
El Concorde "tuvo más nombre que rentabilidad" (AP)
El Concorde tuvo más nombre que rentabilidad, y más fama que éxito comercial. En el programa de avión comercial supersónico franco-británico, originalmente todo apuntaba a que iba a ser el avión del futuro: ocho compañías norteamericanas lo reservaron: TWA, Air Canada, Pan Am, Continental, American Airlines y United se unieron a Eastern y Braniff. También lo encargó la china CAAC, la libanesa MEA, la japonesa JAL y la australiana Qantas.
Air India e Iran Air también firmaron cartas de intenciones para tener al Concorde en sus flotas y en Europa, la alemana Lufthansa, la belga Sabena junto a British Airways y Air France fueron las que se interesaron en el aparato.
El aparato de Air France conservado como monumento en el aeropuerto de Paris-Charles de Gaulle (Javier Ortega Figueiral/La Vanguardia)
La crisis del petróleo junto a las presiones político-comerciales de Estados Unidos, que canceló su programa supersónico propio convirtió al proyecto Concorde en un fracaso comercial. Elegante en las formas, glamoroso en el estilo, pero un fracaso sin paliativos, compensado por lo tecnológico, que fue una de las bases de la creación de Airbus.
Finalmente solo se construyeron 20 unidades, entre prototipos, pre-producción y los que volaron comercialmente.
Museo del Aire y del Espacio de Le Bourget. El prototipo 001 voló de 1969 a 1973. Desde su retirada está expuesto en el museo del Aire y del Espacio de Le Bourget, al noroeste de París. Allí comparte espacio bajo un mismo techo con uno de los que volaron para Air France: el número de serie 213, que se matriculó como F-BTSD y estuvo volando para la compañía 25 años.
Los dos Concordes conservados frente a frente en un hangar de Le Bourget, París (MA LBG/La Vanguardia)
Ambos pueden visitarse gratuitamente, aunque el acceso al interior de los aparatos tiene un costo que justifica el mantenimiento de ambos aviones en el museo.
Fleet Air Museum, Reino Unido. El prototipo 002 voló de 1969 a 1976. Actualmente está en el Fleet Air Museum, en Reino Unido, considerado como el principal centro de Europa dedicado a la aviación naval. No es extraño, pues está instalado junto a una base aeronaval de la Royal Navy donde operan seis escuadrones de helicópteros y varios escuadrones de entrenamiento de aviadores militares.
La singular trompa del prototipo del Concorde en el Fleet Air Museum, rodeado de otros aparatos menores (JOF/La Vanguardia)
Ese Concorde es fácilmente distinguible por su trompa cerrada. Está en un gran hangar, rodeado de otros aparatos militares e históricos. Es frecuente que el espacio bajo las alas del avión se use para eventos y celebraciones por su singularidad.
Museo Imperial de la Guerra de Duxford. El avión 101 fue un Concorde de pre-serie, ensamblado en Reino Unido. Voló hasta 1977 y está actualmente expuesto en el museo Imperial de la Guerra de Duxford al sur de la ciudad de Cambridge y junto a un aeródromo. A su alrededor e incluso colgando del techo, hay una interesantísima colección de aviones civiles, militares y comerciales sobre todo de tiempos de posguerra.
Así se exhibe el avión supersónico en el museo imperial de la guerra de Duxford (IWM/La Vanguardia)
Museé Delta, Francia. El avión 102 de pre-serie voló de 1973 a 1976. Era uno de los aviones de desarrollo francés con la peculiaridad de que por su lado izquierdo lleva los antiguos colores de Air France y por el derecho los de British Airways. Está desde hace varias décadas en el museo Delta, junto al aeropuerto de París-Orly, conservado en el exterior, lo que hace que su estado de conservación no sea el óptimo y que incluso haya sido pintado con grafitis en varias ocasiones.
Vista Aérea del pequeño museo Delta de Orly, al que le tocó en custodia uno de los primeros Concorde (Picasa / Paris Aeropor/La Vanguardia)
El museo que solo abre un par de días por semana, está consagrado al ala delta y ha quedado encajonado dentro de un desarrollo urbanístico al sur de Orly y está por ver si con los escasos recursos que dispone tendrá continuidad. Sin asientos, el interior del avión sirve como sala de exposiciones de fotografía. Por el momento, los otros aviones que exponía junto al Concorde, un Caravelle y un Mercure, fueron retirados del lugar.
Aeroscopia. Dos de los aparatos que ya fueron de producción, los números 201 y 209 están en Aeroscopia , un interesante museo de aire muy moderno, junto a las pistas del aeropuerto de Toulouse Blagnac, consagrado, sobre todo a las aeronaves que se han construido en la zona.
Interior del aeroscopia. Este es uno de los dos Concordes que se conservan en esta instalación de Toulouse (Javier Ortega Figueiral/La Vanguardia)
Uno de los Concorde está guardado bajo techo, pintado con los colores genéricos del fabricante, mientras que el que está en el exterior y recibe a los visitantes lleva los antiguos colores corporativos de Air France y está aparcado junto a un Caravelle de Air Inter y un prototipo del A400M, el avión de transporte militar creado por Airbus.
Museo Brooklands. El Concorde número de serie 202 voló desde 1974 a 1981 con los colores de British Airways y fue cedido al museo Brooklands , situado al oeste de Londres y sur del aeropuerto de Heathrow. Instalado en un gran jardín a la intemperie, el supersónico está rodeado de otras viejas glorias de la aviación británica.
En Brooklands se conserva uno de los antiguos Concordes de British Airways al aire libre (BAM UK/La Vanguardia)
El avión tiene tres zonas diferenciadas: la cabina de vuelo, mantenida en perfecto estado, una parte de la zona de pasaje con los asientos originales y una segunda zona del fuselaje despojada de butacas, que sirve de espacio expositivo sobre la historia del modelo.
Aeropuerto de Manchester. También en Reino Unido, concretamente junto al aeropuerto de Manchester, se mantiene el Concorde 204, que llevó la matricula G-BOAC. El avión llegó en vuelo en 2003, poco después de retirarse del servicio comercial y, posteriormente, se construyo un espacio expositivo específico para acogerlo, junto a un parque que es usado como un atractivo mirador sobre las pistas de vuelo.
Aeropuerto de Londres-Heathrow. Otro de los Concorde de British Airways, el número de serie 208, está en el aeropuerto de Londres-Heathrow. Es uno de los que la aerolínea donó a la instalación que acogió todos sus vuelos supersónicos. Inicialmente tuvo un lugar simular al dedicado en Paris-Charles de Gaulle, aunque para aprovechar ese espacio se acabó moviendo hasta una zona de mantenimiento, en espera de encontrarle una ubicación digna.
Actualmente se puede ver con claridad, aunque no visitar, cuando se aterriza en Heathrow por la pista 27L, pues está aparcado en esa zona.
Museo Nacional del Vuelo de Escocia. Por su lado, el número 206, que voló con base en Londres entre 1975 y 2000 fue cedido al museo Nacional del Vuelo de Escocia, miembro de una red escocesa de espacios museísticos que incluye el de la guerra, el de la vida rural o el de historia escocesa.
En Edimburgo, la experiencia de la visita al Concorde quiere simular un viaje real en el avión (NMF/La Vanguardia)
El Concorde ahora con base en Edimburgo está en perfecto estado de revista, y su visita reproduce todos los pasos que se daban en un vuelo real entre Londres y Nueva York.
Centro aeronáutico de Bristol. El último Concorde que se quedó en territorio británico fue el número de serie 216, con matrícula G-BOAF y está en Bristol, Inglaterra. Es una de las estrellas en el centro aeronáutico de Bristol y hace unos meses se ha instalado en un nuevo edificio, donde luce merecidamente como lo que es: un hito de la tecnología y el diseño en un espacio diáfano que permite admirarlo desde todas las perspectivas posibles y sobre el que se proyectan diferentes mensajes, luces y colores.
El impecable avión que se conserva en Bristol, ya instalado en su nuevo hangar (Adam Gasson/La Vanguardia)
Museo de la Aeronáutica y Astronáutica, Manhattan. Uno de los dos Concordes que acabaron sus días en la costa este de Estados Unidos, se encuentra en Manhattan. Mantiene los colores de British y está junto al río Hudson y en un lugar muy curioso: en el muelle en el que está amarrado en portaaviones Intrepid, actualmente usado como museo de la aeronáutica y astronáutica.
La cola del Concorde de Nueva York asoma tras la popa del portaaviones Intrepid (Javier Ortega Figueiral/La Vanguardia)
Allí se exhibe una interesantísima colección de aviones, helicópteros e incluso uno de los Transbordadores espaciales de la NASA. La visita merece la pena para pasar una mañana entera repasando historia de todo lo que ha volado y tener la poco frecuente ocasión de visitar a la vez un portaaviones convertido en museo flotante.
Museo Smithsonian. El otro aparato era de la flota de Air France y ahora gracias a la cesión de la aerolínea francesa forma parte de la nutrida colección de aeronaves del museo Smithsonian. En este caso no está en el Mall de Washington, donde hay un buen número de aeronaves, sino en una ampliación dedicada a los grandes aparatos junto al aeropuerto de Dulles.
Museo del Vuelo, Seattle. El tercer Concorde que voló a Estados Unidos está en Seattle, en el museo del vuelo, junto al Boeing field. Es un antiguo aparato de British Airways que ha acabado engrosando una interesante colección de aviones en el mismo lugar donde buena parte de los aparatos “made in USA” son ensamblados y realizan sus vuelos de prueba.
Concorde Experience, isla Barbados. El Concorde que acabó en el destino más exótico fue el matriculado como G-BOAE de British y que estuvo en la flota hasta 2003, realizando su último vuelo real hasta la isla de Barbados, en el Caribe. No fue casual, sino una petición del gobierno de este pequeño país, que se convirtió un destino de turismo de alto poder adquisitivo para británicos que volaban hasta Bridgetown con el avión supersónico.
Este es el hangar donde se conserva el Concorde exhibido en Barbados (Gaia/La Vanguardia)
Desde hace casi 15 años, junto a la terminal del aeropuerto Grantley Adams, existe la Concorde Experience, un hangar dedicado en exclusiva al mundo de este avión con una unidad real como mayor atractivo.
Sinsheim Auto & Technik Museum, Alemania. De vuelta a Europa, uno de los museos más interesantes donde se conserva uno de los 18 Concordes que han llegado a 2018 es el Sinsheim Auto & Technik Museum, al norte de la ciudad de Stuttgart, Alemania.
Lo singular de este lugar es que el avión parece exhibido por partida doble, aunque para los conocedores del mundo aeronáutico está claro lo que los responsables del museo han logrado: comparar la apuesta europea y soviética por los vuelos comerciales supersónicos, situando en el mismo lugar al Tupolev 144 y al Aerospatiale/Bac Concorde.
El Tupolev 144 y el Concorde lucen así en la cubierta del museo de Sinsheim (STM/La Vanguardia)
La historia del Concorde se detuvo en 2003, aunque continúa viva en todos los museos y espacios expositivos que rinden homenaje al que probablemente sea el avión comercial más famoso de la historia, con permiso quizá del jumbo y del DC-3.
Los dos aparatos restantes hasta llegar a los 20 tuvieron diferente suerte: uno es el que despegando de París acabó estrellándose cerca del aeropuerto Charles de Gaulle en 2000 y otro, de British, fue aprovechado como fuente de piezas para la flota en vuelo y después desguazado y subastado en piezas.
Quick Description: Revolution theme, spectacular plaza, avenue and church, beautiful and somber memorial.
Where: Right Bank, from Place de la Concorde directly north to Blvd Haussmann.
Start at Place de la Concorde, outside Metro station Concorde (##1, 8, #12 lines). End outside the park around Chapelle Expiatoire, near Metro stations Saint Lazare (#3, #12, #13, #14 lines) and Havre – Caumartin (#3, #9 lines) .
Duration: 30 min walk, @1.5-2.5 hrs with venue visits and browsing the flower market and shops. Early Departure Option at the midpoint, Place de la Madeleine, before the route heads to Chapelle Expiatorie.
Best Days: Tues – Fri.
Best Time to Start: 10:30am – 11:30am
Ready to stroll? Open this page vertically on your mobile phone and click VIEW DIRECTIONS.
Connects: by quick Metro rides from station Saint Lazare via the #12 line to Stroll 13 (Musee D’Orsay to Musee Rodin), or Stroll 15 (Concorde-Tuileries-Vendome), or Stroll 17 (Concorde to Place de l’Alma), or Stroll 24 (Montmartre), or Stroll 25 (Pigalle aka SOPI); and from either station Saint Lazare or station Havre – Caumartin via the #3 line to Stroll 21 (Opera-Haussmann-Saint Lazare), or the standalone site, Cimetiere Pere Lachaise; and from station Saint Lazare via the #13 line to the standalone site, Musee Jacquemart-Andre.
Past and Present: This stroll starts at Place de la Concorde, where King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were executed on the guillotine during the Revolution, and follows the route their bodies were taken, up Rue Royale, past the Church of the Madeleine to the church’s unused cemetery land, where they were unceremoniously buried in what became a mass grave. Place de la Concorde is now a spectacular traffic rotary with statues and fountains plus an 18th century royal mansion, Hotel de la Marine, which is open to visitors. The Church of the Madeleine, finished in the early 1800s, replicates the Parthenon and offers an impressive interior. And Chapelle Expiatorie and a surrounding park now sits on the royal gravesite, as a memorial to the king and queen and other victims of the Revolution. The stroll route also brings you to three picturesque shopping arcades, a flower market, and a variety of restaurants, including the famous Maxim’s and a “secret” lunch venue in the cellar of the church.
Attractions (in order):
Place de la Concorde: Forming the western border of the Jardin des Tuileries, and the eastern end of the Champs Elysses. Plaza dating from the 18th century, site of the guillotine during the Revolution, now a spectacular traffic rotary with statues and fountains and the Luxor obelisk, plus former royal buildings along the north side.
Hotel de la Marine: #2 Place de la Concorde, start of route. Magnificent 18th century royal mansion forming the northeastern boundary of Place de la Concorde. Now open to the public, to tout the opulent rooms and view the private Al Thani antiquities collection housed there. Building accessible daily 10:30am-7pm (9:30pm Fridays), but entry requires reserving a tour time. There are five audio guided tours to choose from: four 90 min long, €17; one 45 min long €13. (Note: To visit here on this stroll, schedule your tour time near to your start time.)
Hotel de Crillon: #4-10 Place de la Concorde, start of route. Magnificent 17th century royal mansion forming the northwestern border of Place de la Concorde. It houses an historic luxury traveler’s inn, also called Hotel de Crillon, at #10, as well as the Automobile Club of France and the Hotel de Coislin mansion site. The public areas of the traveler’s inn are accessible.
Rue Royale: running from Place de la Concorde north to Place de la Madeleine. Impressive 18th century street, created as a royal parade route and vista between Place de la Concorde and the Church of the Madeleine. Many of its landmarked buildings now house the flagship stores of luxury brand retailers.
Le Village Royal: #25 Rue Royale, near Place de la Madeleine, with exit at the other end onto Rue Boissy d’Anglas. Shops of upscale brands are set in an 18th century courtyard. Mon-Sat courtyard opens 8am, shops open 10am-7pm.
Galerie de la Madeleine: Route uses entry at #30 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, and exits at the other end onto Place de la Madeleine. This is an operating 19th century shopping arcade with period charm and unique boutiques. Accessible Mon-Sat 8am-11pm, shops generally open at 10am.
Church of the Madeleine: Place de la Madeleine. Large, ornate church built from the late 1700s to the early 1800s, with an exterior that is modeled on the Parthenon in Greece and an interior featuring three domes, plus various artworks. Daily 9:30am-7pm, free.
Madeleine Flower Market: Place de la Madeleine. Open-air stalls are located along the eastern side of the church. Mon-Sat, 8am-7:30pm.
Passage Puteaux: Running between Rue de l’Arcade and Rue Pasquier. Operating 19th century shopping arcade with period detail, shops and a restaurant (see “Dining Suggestions”). Accessible Mon-Fri 7am-7pm.
#34 Rue Pasquier: Across the street from Square Louis XVI and Chapelle Expiatoire. Art Deco style building adorned with remarkable bas relief sculptures of tropical and jungle animals and fish.
Square Louis XVI and Chapelle Expiatoire: Entry on Rue Pasquier. The small park surrounds a memorial dedicated to King Louis XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette, as well as other victims of the Revolution. It includes a chapel with statues, a crypt and a representative cemetery. Square Louis XVI is open Mon-Fri 8am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun 9am-6:30pm, free. Chapelle Expiatorie is open Oct-Mar Mon-Sat 10:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-5pm, April-Sept Tues-Sat 10am-12:30pm and 1:30-6:30pm, €6, free for persons under 18, EU residents under 26, handicapped persons and their aides.
Dining Suggestions (in order):
Maxim’s: #3 Rue Royale, on the left-hand side of the first block as you walk north from Place de la Concorde. Dating from 1893 this became a legendary watering hole of the rich and famous during the 20th century, and was used as a movie set on several occasions. It features Art Nouveau architecture, sumptuous Belle Epoque décor and a limited menu of expensive, classic French dishes, plus sales of branded caviar and fancy chocolates. Wed-Sat Noon-2pm, 7:30-10:30pm. Average cost @€120. Reservations suggested.
Le Boissy d’Anglas: #41 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, opposite entry to Galerie de la Madeleine. French cuisine, short bistro menu. Upscale traditional room, outdoor seating. Mon-Fri 9am-Midnight. Prix fixe meal @€44 3 courses, a la carte mains @€16-22, breakfast pastry options.
Lucas Carton: #9 Place de la Madeleine, next to the Galerie de la Madeleine. Michelin starred restaurant dating from 1860. Inventive French haute cuisine, offered a la carte and in tasting menus. Elegant dining room. Average cost @€120. An alternate dining room, Le Petit Carton, located upstairs, offers somewhat lower prices. Mon-Sat Noon-1:30pm, 7:30-9:30pm. Reservations suggested.
Le Foyer de la Madeleine: Inside the Church of the Madeleine, with an entrance behind the flower stalls. Charitable enterprise offering a short menu of French home style dishes at economical prices. The space consists of vaulted cellar rooms located beneath the church, furnished in traditional restaurant style. Open for lunch only, Mon-Fri 11:45am-2pm. Average cost: @€10 3 courses. No reservations. (Note: Once a “secret” place it is now quite popular, so arrive early if possible.)
La Pate a Nouilles Madeleine: #8 Rue de Castellane. Chinese and Japanese noodle shop. Casual, bright, modern room. Mon-Sat 11:30am-3:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm. Appetizers @€4.10, Soup and wok noodle dishes @€11.40, desserts @€5.30.
O’Ginko: #17 Rue de Castellane. Japanese cuisine, including full menu of cooked dishes, plus sushi and sashimi, served in set menus including soup, salad and choice of main, as well as a la carte. Modern room. Daily 11am-3:30pm, 6:30-11pm. Menu prices @€13-22, a la carte appetizers @€5, sushi rolls @€8.5.
Les Caprices de Charlotte: #14 Rue de Castellane at Rue de l’Arcade. Patisserie with pastries, baguette sandwiches, quiche, coffee and tea. Counter service. Seating for about 20 in casual modern space. Mon-Sat 7am-8pm. Moderate prices.
Le Boutiques des Vins: #31/33 Rue de l’Arcade (actually inside Passage Puteaux). Wine bar serving French cuisine, including a small plates menu, plus many wines by the glass at reasonable prices. Traditional room and seating along the covered passage. Mon-Fri Noon-3pm, 6-11:30pm. Lunch prix fixe @€24.
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